Clean and Store Garden Tools for Winter: A Fall Checklist

The Fall Tool Checklist

To store garden tools for winter, clean and dry them, take off any rust, disinfect and sharpen the cutting edges, oil the metal and the wooden handles, drain the hoses, and hang everything in a dry place. Done once in fall, the job means the tools come out in spring ready to use.

Here is the order to work in. Each step is covered in detail below.

1. Scrape and wash off soil, then dry the tool completely.
2. Remove sap from cutting tools and rust from any metal.
3. Disinfect pruners, loppers and saws for at least 30 seconds.
4. Sharpen pruners along the factory bevel, and shovels at about 45 degrees.
5. Wipe a rust inhibitor over all metal surfaces.
6. Sand wooden handles and rub in boiled linseed oil.
7. Drain hoses and sprayers, and run the mower out of fuel.
8. Hang tools in a dry place, off the ground.

Do this after the last real gardening day and before freezing weather, since Purdue’s yard and garden guidance warns that hoses left outdoors in winter are likely to crack and split, especially with water still inside.

Clean Off Soil, Sap and Rust

Start with the digging tools. Iowa State University Extension’s instruction is to remove caked-on soil from shovels, spades, hoes and rakes with a wire brush or a stiff putty knife, wash the tools with a strong stream of water, and then dry them. University of Wisconsin Extension suggests rinsing under running water or soaking first, then removing what remains with a cloth, bristle brush or wire brush. Drying is part of the step. A tool put away wet has been cleaned for nothing.

Sap needs a solvent. Wisconsin recommends soapy water or turpentine for sap on cutting tools. University of New Hampshire Extension suggests rubbing alcohol, or for stubborn pine pitch a rag dipped in paint thinner.

For rust, Wisconsin advises coarse-grade steel wool or lump pumice. It cautions that sandpaper, emery cloth and putty knives should be used carefully because they can leave scratches where rust can redevelop. New Hampshire’s pruner guide also uses coarse steel wool. Heavier corrosion is covered in removing rust from garden tools.

Disinfect Pruners and Saws

If you cut out diseased wood during the season, disinfect cutting tools before they go into storage. Wisconsin’s guidance is to treat tools for at least 30 seconds with 10% bleach or, preferably, 70% alcohol. It prefers alcohol because of its less corrosive properties, and notes that rubbing alcohol and many spray disinfectants contain approximately 70% alcohol.

NC State Extension gives the bleach recipe as 9 parts of water to 1 part of bleach, which is the same 10% strength. If you use bleach, Wisconsin’s advice is to rinse the tools thoroughly and oil them afterward to prevent rusting.

If your pruners are past saving, our guide to choosing pruning shears covers what to look for in a replacement.

Sharpen Edges Before You Put Them Away

Sharpening in fall means the edge is ready in spring. UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions lists protective eyewear and gloves as essential for the job, along with a file and, for larger tools, a vise to hold the tool still.

Pruners. Follow the factory bevel. New Hampshire’s method is to draw a diamond file along the cutting edge with medium pressure, set at the same angle as the factory beveled edge, sharpening in one direction only, from the inside of the blade outward. Then run a fine file over the back of the blade to remove any burrs.

Shovels, spades and hoes. UF/IFAS advises removing rust with steel wool or a wire brush, securing the tool in a vise, and dragging a metal file along the edge in a smooth, even motion, working in one direction and holding a consistent angle. The angle depends on the tool:

Tool	Sharpening angle (UF/IFAS)
Shovel	About 45 degrees
Hoe, heavy work	45 degrees
Hoe, general purpose	30 to 35 degrees
Hoe, fine weeding	20 to 30 degrees

On shovels, UF/IFAS warns that anything sharper than about 45 degrees will dull too quickly. University of Wisconsin Extension gives 30 degrees as typical for shovels and hoes. The two sources span 30 to 45 degrees. Finish by removing burrs on the back of the blade with 300-grit sandpaper.

For the full routine on cutting tools, including which side of the blade to file, see how to sharpen loppers and garden pruners.

Oil the Metal and the Handles

Oil follows cleaning and sharpening, once the tools are clean, rust-free and dry. Wisconsin’s instruction is to apply oil, silicone spray or some other rust inhibitor to all metal surfaces. Iowa State suggests wiping metal with an oily rag. For pruners, New Hampshire advises oiling to lubricate the moving parts as well as to protect the steel, then wiping off the excess with a clean rag.

For shovels and spades, NC State Extension describes a shortcut: fill a 5 gallon bucket with sand mixed with oil, and dip the clean tools into it. Motor oil is a cheap option, and any light oil will do.

Wooden handles need their own treatment. Wisconsin recommends smoothing them with medium grit sandpaper to remove splinters, then using boiled linseed oil to prevent the wood from drying out, cracking and splintering. Iowa State and New Hampshire give the same advice, and the steps are set out in keeping wooden tool handles splinter free. While the handle is in your hands, check that the head is tight and the wood is not cracked where it enters the socket.

Deal with the rags before you leave the shed. A National Park Service fire alert lists rags soaked with linseed or motor oil among the materials that can self-heat and ignite with no outside heat source. Its first rule is never to store oil-soaked rags in a pile. Hang them to dry, and keep used rags in a metal container with a self-closing lid, away from heat sources such as furnaces and water heaters.

Drain Hoses, Sprayers and Engines

Water left in equipment is what freezes and breaks it. Three items need draining.

Hoses. Iowa State says to drain water from garden hoses and, to prevent kinking, store them on reels or coiled on a flat surface. Purdue adds sprinklers to the list and suggests hanging hoses to dry before coiling them. New Hampshire’s version is to drain thoroughly, then store rolled up and laid flat.

Sprayers and spreaders. Purdue advises rinsing pesticide sprayers and letting them drip dry before storing. New Hampshire says to drain and clean sprayers and spreaders thoroughly, lubricate all moving parts, and wipe parts prone to rust with an oily rag.

Mowers and tillers. Purdue’s advice is to run the mower until it is out of fuel and to use up or drain fuel from a garden tiller before storing. For a 4-cycle engine, drain and replace the crankcase oil. Changing the spark plug and sharpening the mower blades now saves time in spring. Lubricate moving parts according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Store Tools Dry and Off the Ground

Storage has two rules: dry, and off the ground. Iowa State says to hang or store tools in a dry location. NC State Extension notes that hanging tools so they are not in contact with the ground may also help prevent rust. New Hampshire asks for a storage area that is dry and clean.

A wall rail or a row of hooks in a shed or garage does the job for long-handled tools. Keep pruners, trowels and other hand tools together in a box or drawer so they are easy to find in spring.

Before you close the door, write down what needs replacing: the cracked hose washer, the bent lopper, the trowel that did not survive the season. A list made in October, with the tools in front of you, is more accurate than one made from memory in March.