How to Propagate Pothos in Water: A Step-by-Step Guide

How to Propagate Pothos in Water

To propagate pothos in water, cut a stem tip 3 to 6 inches long with at least two nodes, strip the lower leaves, and stand the bare nodes in a jar of water in bright indirect light. Change the water once or twice a week. Roots form in about 3 to 4 weeks, and the cutting is ready for potting mix when they are about 1 inch long.

1. Cut a healthy stem tip 3 to 6 inches long that carries at least two nodes.
2. Remove the lower leaves so the nodes at the base are bare.
3. Put the cutting in a clean jar with the bare nodes under water and the remaining leaves above it.
4. Set the jar in bright indirect light, out of direct sun.
5. Change the water one to two times each week and keep the level above the developing roots.
6. Pot the cutting in fresh mix once the roots reach about 1 inch.

The numbers come from Iowa State University Extension’s guide to stem tip cuttings and from University of Wisconsin Extension’s pothos profile. The sections below explain each step.

Why Pothos Roots So Easily

Pothos is a vine that climbs by aerial roots, and Penn State Extension notes that these roots sit at each node of the stem. A node is the point where a leaf joins the vine. A cutting that includes nodes already carries the places where roots develop.

This is why the node is the one requirement. Clemson’s Home and Garden Information Center notes that pothos stem cuttings root easily in soil or in water, but that a cutting needs at least one node to root properly. A leaf with its stalk and no node fails that test. The same jar method works for kitchen plants, as the guide to propagating herbs from cuttings in water shows.

Choosing and Taking the Cutting

Iowa State’s specification for a houseplant stem tip cutting is 3 to 6 inches long with at least two nodes. Use clean, sharp scissors and choose a vine with firm, well-colored leaves.

Take the lower leaves off, as Iowa State directs. They would otherwise sit under water, and stripping them exposes the nodes that need to be submerged. Leave the upper leaves in place.

Timing helps but does not decide the outcome. Iowa State calls early spring the ideal time and adds that most houseplants can be propagated at any time of year. Penn State finds stem cuttings more successful during the growing season, from spring through summer.

All parts of a pothos contain calcium oxalate crystals and are mildly toxic if eaten, so Clemson advises keeping the plant away from children and pets. That applies to trimmings and to a jar of cuttings on a low shelf.

Water, Light and Temperature While Rooting

Any clean jar or glass works. Fill it so the bare nodes are covered and the leaves are clear of the surface. Iowa State gives two rules for the water. Change it one to two times each week. Never let the level drop far enough to expose the developing roots to air. Top the jar up between changes if the level falls.

For light, Iowa State recommends 4 to 6 hours of bright indirect light for rooting cuttings. Wisconsin describes the plant’s preference as filtered light and warns that it cannot take direct sun. A spot near a bright window but out of the sunbeam fits both descriptions.

Warmth helps. Iowa State calls an air temperature between 65 and 75°F ideal for cuttings, and Penn State places pothos in average room temperatures between 60 and 80°F. A windowsill can run colder than the room in winter, so move the jar a little way inside during a cold snap.

How Long Rooting Takes

Wisconsin reports that pothos vines root in water within 3 to 4 weeks, and that buds can start to grow in 1 to 2 weeks under warm temperatures. Iowa State’s general figure for houseplant cuttings is 3 to 6 weeks. Taken together, expect visible roots within about a month and allow up to 6 weeks in a cool or dim room.

If nothing has happened by then, go back over the sourced conditions in order. First, confirm that the cutting has a node and that the node is under water. Second, check that the water has been changed once or twice a week and has stayed above the base of the stem. Third, compare the spot with the light and temperature targets above, and move the jar if it misses either one.

Transplanting Rooted Cuttings into Soil

Pot the cutting when the roots are about 1 inch long. That is Iowa State’s figure, and the reason behind it is worth knowing. Roots that form in water are coarser in texture than roots that form in potting mix, and they are not well adapted to soil. After potting, a water-rooted cutting may show stress such as wilting, leaf drop, browning leaves or tip dieback. Moving the cutting while the roots are still short keeps that adjustment small, so there is no gain in waiting for a jar full of roots.

Use a small pot with drainage holes and fresh potting mix. The guide to choosing a pot size for a houseplant covers how to size it. Several cuttings can share one pot if you want a fuller plant. Iowa State’s aftercare is to keep newly potted plants well watered and in bright indirect light, and it expects them to establish within a few weeks. After that, move the pot to its permanent spot and begin regular feeding.

Once the plant is established, change the watering. Wisconsin advises watering a pothos only when the soil surface is dry, and Penn State’s summary is that pothos is better kept too dry than too wet. Penn State warns that too much water leads to root rot, and the root rot recovery guide covers what to do if that happens.